Sometimes a ring just doesn’t work. Perhaps the proportions are all wrong, the setting isn’t right or the style just hasn’t been executed properly. A poorly made ring will spend more time in the bottom drawer of a jewellery box that it ever will being worn and enjoyed on the finger which was exactly the fate that befell the ring featured in this article. A beautiful diamond in a poor setting is such a waste and for our customer the time had come to put things right.
The diamond in this ring had been tension set in to an 18ct white gold mount but as so often happens with a setting of this type, and particularly with so much of the diamond exposed, there was an awful lot of lateral movement and the stone was rocking in it’s setting. The setting was also too shallow which meant that the culet of the diamond protruded beyond the base of the setting and this added to it’s vulnerability. In addition the ring had been very poorly sized in the past and the join was ugly and poorly finished.
Our customer knew exactly what she wanted and together we discussed the design, the processes involved and the cost. We cut out the old tension setting and hand made a new rubover setting in platinum; retaining the original shank we tapered the shoulders slightly by removing some of the weight to make for a finer profile and also to draw the eye to the diamond; finally we removed the previous poor sizing join and made good. The results can be seen below: